DRIVING BACK THROUGH KRUGER
2008
Regretfully we head out of the Game Reserve and drive into the Kruger Park, where we will go south towards the highway at the Malelane Gate, instead of going across to the Crocodile Bridge Gate, which was our point of entry. We are driving fast (there is a 50km speed limit) with very few stops for pictures. We have the border crossing to worry about and do not want to drive on the Mozambican highway in the dark. Still, we see a splendid herd of zebras - one of the few animals we did not see at Idube -and also a large black bird, which looks like a vulture, but is a Southern Ground Hornbill. The area has been very flat, but now we begin to see some rocky hills (reminiscent of the Lion King scenarios). We stop briefly for a snack at a campsite and notice the care with which South Africans treat their water supply and garbage disposal. The toilets are invariably clean and there are many educational signs about what happens to the animals when you throw garbage in the park. On we go, cross a river on our way out of the park and next are thundering along a highway, still driving on the left, Victor at the wheel. We are surrounded by green fields and irrigation systems are everywhere. Before reaching the border we stop at a supermarket to get a couple of necessities and use the ATM machine. The parking lot has a vaguely threatening atmosphere with many poor looking children and young men standing idly around or asking for change - we do not leave the car unattended for an instant - whereas the supermarket is absolutely clean with a kid driving around on a floor cleaning machine in the middle of the customers. The border itself is a chaotic nightmare. Upon exiting South Africa and entering Mozambique you have to go through twin processes of leaving the car (we have an open canvas-covered back on the pick-up truck, which is stressful, because our luggage is beneath it), registering your vehicle in one line and then joining another long line to get your passport stamped - in Oswaldo’s and my case also to buy an entry visa to Mozambique. Armed police is everywhere, as are an assailing host of ‘helpers’, who make you feel, if possible, more lost and confused. In our case things are even more messed up, because apparently we missed the exit procedure when we left Mozambique and went straight to the entry one in the South African border office. Eventually all is sorted out with money changing hands and we are free to continue our journey north towards Maputo. The countryside is now much poorer and drier, with pathetic straw dwellings, flat roofs held in place with big stones. The road is very good, but we are uneasy about the many goats grazing there and unexpectedly crossing the road. Car insurance in Mozambique is about the most unfair we have ever come across. You have a $900 deductible for anything that happens to the car, and accidents involving things (such as animals or trees), driving while drunk, or speeding imply a deductible of $30,000, as is the case if your car is stolen - even if you are held up at gunpoint!
Driving into Maputo from the south you catch a beautiful view of a Manhattan-like skyline and soon we whizz through the bustling streets towards our hotel. We are all very tired - Victor even gives up on working out - and eventually decide just to have dinner at the hotel - which turns out to be both expensive and bad - and also sad, because it is our last night with Victor. We pack and go to bed early - we will have breakfast together tomorrow and drive the car to the airport.
RETURNING TO MAPUTO
September 6, 2008 9:00 PM
WE’RE OF COURSE QUITE BLAS´E BY NOW - HAVING SEEN SO MUCH - BUT A HERD OF ZEBRAS CAN STILL CATCH OUR ATTENTION
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